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How To's

  • Sherco Trials Clutch Specs 1999>2016

    Clutch Specs:
    Fibre plates are 2.73mm when new
    Steel plates are 1.53mm when new
    Clutch pressure plate is 5.30mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the outer edge.
    Clutch hub is 3.00mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the machined outer edge

    2014 Factory > 2016:
    As above, but these used 4 x standard 2.73mm frictions, and 2 x 3.00mm thick racing fibre plates.

    Common Problems:

    • Old oil / Oil type.  This is the first thing to change, the majority of clutch problems are due to the oil type and not been changed recently.
    • The hub can get quite grooved where the steel plates sit causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking.
    • The basket is prone to getting grooves where the friction plates sit, again causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking.
    • Clutch springs can loose their springiness, the free length of the spring from new should be 45mm, if they get below 44mm they will cause slippage in high gears under high load.
      If the spring have shrunk replace the springs https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-springs.html or we do some washers to put extra tension on the springs https://www.splatshop.co.uk/shim-washer-14x20x1-din-988.html
    • The friction face's on the hub and the pressure plate been out of square, if you have the equipment it might be worth clocking up the friction face and the clamping face to ensure they are parallel to each other, if not you can give the friction faces a quick clean up on the lathe assuming there is enough material left. With these faces being made of aluminium they usually wear more than the friction plates.

    Oil:
    When the bike is new, change the oil more frequently to flush out any metal debris, then I personally change my gear oil every few months so it probably gets changed about every 20 times I ride the bike, this helps keep the clutch working well.

    The oil type makes quite a noticeable difference to the response of the Clutch, Putoline Nano Trans GP is the best oil we've tried in the Sherco, especially with the clutch, it's pretty good with the gear shifting too and it seams to work for a long time before it needs changing. https://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html

    Missing Washer (Major clutch slippage):
    See the picture below for the washer that might be missing that causes very bad clutch slippage (highlighted in red) https://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-washer-a82035.html
    This washer behind the clutch hub should also be 1mm thick

    The clutch thrust bearing is 2mm thick
    The washer for the above bearing is 1mm thick

  • Splat Sherco Front Mudguard Flap - Fitting

    Fitting a mudflap to your front mudguard helps to keep your bike cleaner in the muddy conditions and it really helps to keep your radiator cleaner which helps prevent your bike from overheating.

    Remove your front mudguard and give it a good wash, we use a dish washing sponge with a scourer as it slight abrades the surface giving the adhesive a better hold.MudFlap-Wash

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  • Setting the cam chain timing on a Sherco 4T Trials Engine

     

     

    Read more to see pictures on setting the cam chain timing on a Sherco 4T

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  • Tech Suspension Fork Oil Levels

    Tech list the fork oil levels rather than quantities for these Tech Suspension forks as it is impossible to get all the old oil out of the forks without fully dismantling the forks and the damper.

    Right Hand Leg (Damper Side)

    Tech Suspension specify an air gap (see table below) from the top of the oil to the top of the fork stanchion for the right hand fork leg, the one with the damper in it, this is with the forks bottomed out and the damper as far down as it will go, to do it properly you need to undo the top cap off the damping rod so the damping rod can be pushed all the way down.

    Use a 14mm and a 17mm open ended spanners to undo the lock nut and remove the cap piece from the damper rod, this allows better access to check the require oil height. Oh be careful not to lose the small aluminium piece from the top of the damper rod!

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  • Paioli / Ceriani Fork Oil Levels - For Sherco trials bikes from 2006 to 2011

    Sherco list the fork oil levels rather than quantities for these forks as it is impossible to get all the old oil out of the forks without fully dismantling the forks and the damper.

    Right Hand Leg (Damper Side)

    Sherco specify 55mm air gap from the top of the oil to the top of the fork stanchion for the right hand fork leg, the one with the damper in it, this is with the forks bottomed out and the damper as far down as it will go, to do it properley you need to undo the top cap off the damping rod so the damping rod can be pushed all the way down.

    Removing the top cap to allow correct measurement, Check the 55mm oil height with the damper rod fully down.

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  • Setting the Float height on the Keihin PWK 28

    Remove the Carburettor from the bike and clean the outer surfaces off, we use a tooth brush with a bit of the petrol from out of the carb and then blow it dry with compressed air.

    Remove the float bowl, turn the carburettor upside down, remove the 2 securing screws and then gently pick the float bowl up from the back right hand side first (as you are looking down at the carb in the upside down position). You need to lift this corner up by about 5mm with the carb upside down, then the float bowl should gently come right off, be warned it isn't easy till you've got the hang of it and don't force it as you will bend the floats or the overflow pipe.

    The carb needs to be tilted so the float just touches the the float valve, the float valve has a sprung loaded pin on it so if the carb is held horizontally upside down the weight of the floats will press the spring down and give you a false height. Keihin recommend that you set the floats so they are parallel with the gasket surface of the carb as shown by the 2 red lines in the picture.

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  • Fitting a Spring to an Olle Shock

    Undo the Spring collars Undo the Spring collars

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  • Clutch Basket Fitting Guide

    Here we have one broken clutch basket that needs replacing. The basket was probably broken by holding the clutch with a screw driver rather than the correct clutch holding tool when trying to undo the centre nut.

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