General information

The Reiger damper is equipped with high/low speed compression adjustment, rebound adjustment and on the Factory version two more options which were specially developed for Trials, adjustable hydro stop and bottom rebound adjustment. In the text and pictures below we will explain how all adjusters work and in what situations you may have to change them.
In this manual we will several times use the words 'compression' and 'rebound' in the picture on the right side you will see what is meant in both situations.

Compression

Your dampers has 2 adjustable options for the compression stroke, high and low speed compression adjustment and on the factory version there is also an adjustable hydro stop. The high/low speed compression adjustment works on the whole stroke of the damper and the adjustable hydro stop is only working on the last part of the compression stroke.

High/Low speed compression adjuster

The basics of all the adjusters is the same, turning them clockwise will increase the damping force. Counting clicks on all adjusters has to be started from or towards a fully closed adjuster (i.e. fully clockwise).
The compression damping is adjustable with a high / low speed compression adjuster. The purple knob on the damper is the high speed compression adjuster and the little screw in the middle of this knob is the low speed compression adjuster.
The low speed compression adjustment allows you to modify the low speed compression damping. This has nothing to do with your driving speed but with the damper speed. This adjuster has about 20 clicks.
With a small screwdriver you can adjust the low speed damping by turning the little screw inside purple knob. Fully clockwise is always the starting point. At this point the adjuster is completely closed. With this adjustment you can make your bike more stable by closing the adjuster or gain some traction by opening it. With a fully opened low speed adjuster your motor will feel smooth and it will absorb small bumps very nice but it will also be a bit less stable. If you like to do tricks like hopping on the rear wheel or so it is better to do this with a more closed adjuster. You will notice that these tricks go a lot easier with more low speed damping.
The purple knob is the high speed compression adjustment. This adjustment has about 15 clicks and like all other adjusters fully clockwise is your start point and the stiffest setting. Turning it counter clockwise the damper will feel softer on landings and driving on stones and holes will be smoother. If you open it to much there will be more movement. To adjust this adjuster we provided you with a ‘compression adjuster tool’.

Hydro stop

To avoid the damper from bottoming on hard impacts, for instance after a big jump is this damper equipped with a hydro stop. With this option will the damping force increase on the last part of the compression stroke so that you will have no hard stop at the end of the compression stroke.
The rate of extra damping force is adjustable with the little screw in the blank anodised nut next to the compression adjuster. On the side of the damper you will find the text 'Hydro stop' there where this adjuster is located. In 15 clicks you can adjust the hydro stop from hard (fully closed adjuster) to soft (open adjuster).

On the pictures below you can see when the hydro stop is active and on the graphic you can see what the adjustable range is, with the hydro stop adjustment open you will notice no difference in damping force. If you close the hydro stop adjustment you will notice an increase of damping force with each click you close the adjuster.

Rebound

Your dampers has 2 adjustable options for the rebound stroke, rebound adjustment and bottom rebound adjustment. The rebound adjustment works on the whole stroke of the damper and the bottom rebound adjustment is only working on the first part of the rebound stroke where the damper is fully compressed.

Rebound adjustment

The rebound adjustment allows adjust the rebound force in about 50 clicks. A stiffer damper will give a more stable feeling but will have less traction so if you want to gain traction you will have to open the rebound adjuster. Another benefit of less rebound damping is that it is easier to pull up the rear wheel because the spring will help you to push up the chassis. The adjuster is located at the bottom end of the damper and adjustable with a small screwdriver.

Bottom rebound adjustment

The bottom rebound adjuster is an option specially designed for trial bikes to make it easier to drive vertically upwards an obstacle. If you drive with speed against a wall or rock will the damper compress completely as you hit the obstacle. Normally without the bottom rebound feature will the damper directly expand from this point with the loss of traction. With the bottom rebound in use will the damper stay in it's fully compressed status for an adjustable while so that more force can be used to push the tire to the object so that you have more traction to reach the top of the obstacle. This option will only be active in the first part of the rebound stroke when the damper is fully compressed, in all other situations you will not notice this options.

The rebound delay can be adjusted in 15 clicks with the little screw in the red anodised nut next to the compression adjuster.from long delay (fully closed adjuster) to no delay (open adjuster).

The damper travel where this option is working is only adaptable by Reiger Suspension.

Springs
 

The above mentioned spring rates are for the 2011 Raga Replica bikes for club level drivers. We advise more technical riders to use one step softer spring with more preload to achieve the same ride height and less technical drivers to use one step harder spring with less preload than quoted in the chart. Because the 2010 and 2011 Raga Replica bikes have a different link systems we advise to use a 5 N/mm stiffer spring on the 2010 bike.